EXCLUSIVE: Features Writer Layla Nicholson didn’t think she’d be flying into the potential start of WW3 when she booked a city break to Lublin, Poland. She left the country just before the airport shut and now tells of her experience
It’s not every day that you’re pleased to be in Luton – but I felt a huge sense of relief to have my feet placed firmly back on the airport tarmac of ‘Britain’s worst town’.
That’s because I almost found myself in the very crux of what could have easily been the start of WW3. When I was first browsing Sky Scanner for my next trip out of what has recently been a very bleak UK, I didn’t think that my choice of destination would leave me just a few short miles away from a Russian planned attack.
However, after hitting pay for a £37 return flight to the supposed ‘hidden gem’ of Poland – Lublin – I essentially purchased a front row seat to the escalation of Russia’s continual prodding of NATO.
And I managed to get one of the last flights out of Lublin before the Polish military shut the airport down in the wake of Russia’s ‘state terrorism’ and airstrikes on western Ukrainian cities, Lviv and Ternopil.
On Saturday evening (15 November), part of an integral rail line between Warsaw and Lublin was severely damaged after an explosive device – believed by the Polish government to be a military-grade C4 explosive – was detonated on the tracks.
Poland’s Prime Minister Donald Tusk described the explosion near the village of Mika – just 50 minutes out of Lublin – as “an unprecedented act of sabotage” orchestrated by Russia.
This railway line serves as the main rail route to Ukraine, often delivering the likes of food and medical aid. The train bound for Lublin, that eighth largest city in Poland, is just under 60 miles away from the Ukrainian border. In a second attack on Monday (November 17), power lines were destroyed around the area of Puławy, about 30 miles from Lublin.
Tusk believes that the intention of the explosion was to “most likely to blow up the train” that was carrying hundreds of passengers.
Although, having spent 24 hours in Lublin during this supposed attempt to “scare” Poland – it seems that Russia monumentally failed.
Walking around a city drenched in history and culture, it was difficult to feel a sense of urgency and threat attempted to be perpetuated by the aggressor just miles away.
Lublin Old Town appeared quiet, but not eerily so.
Before I caught wind of what was happening miles away elsewhere in the east of Poland, I just assumed the streets were still as it was dark and snowing.
But, could it have been because Russia was upping the ante of poking NATO member Poland?
I think my initial oblivious outlook can be pardoned.
Nestled inside away from the -4C weather, people of all ages were eating traditional Polish dumplings and the Irish pub attracted fans to watch the Poland vs Malta FIFA World Cup qualifier match.
Laughter, cheers, warming mulled wine and local lemon vodka delivered to the table by bar staff, without an inkling of fear or concern as to what was occurring just miles away.
It just felt normal.
However, the reminder of Lublin’s close relationship – and location – with Ukraine is prevalent. Posters on the street of a recently held event to host Ukrainian creative voices and art remain pinned up amongst restaurant meal deals. ‘Piana Vyshnia’, the Ukrainian cherry spirit brand, with a prominently placed dedicated bar that had all stools taken by lively customers.
The hot cherry spirit felt like a cup of rebellion against Russian agitation when I first learnt what was terrifyingly occurring close to Lublin the next morning.
I quickly checked that my flight hadn’t been cancelled, before hesitantly opening the curtains.
Outside, the sun was beaming down on the few Lubliners cutting about the square in pursuit of their morning coffee and pastries, and tradesmen were busy fixing wooden stalls ready for the Christmas season.
Coaches were ferrying around tourists lined the car park opposite Lublin’s castle and there were bus stops full of grannies and university students as mothers pushed their young children in the brisk winter air.
Although I felt a slight unease, the continuation of everything and everyone around me quickly subsided that feeling – scoffing a cebularz (a Polish and Jewish onion flatbread) probably helped too.
It was time to jump in an Uber and head to Lublin airport.
Though that strange feeling in my stomach began to return as the minutes lessened on the 15-minute journey – or was that the onions?
It was most certainly because of what has now been declared by Polish ministers as Russia’s “state terrorism” on the country and the fact that Lublin is just under two hours drive from the Ukrainian border.
Despite locals in Lublin remaining full of smiles and normality, the stark reminder of the close proximity of war was cemented with military vehicles and cargo parked within the barbed wire of the airport.
Boarding the Ryanair flight back to Luton filled me with both relief and dread. Russian interference is not unheard of, and it’s growing increasingly more uncommon as Poland acts as an important arm of the Ukrainian aid and war efforts.
Though I’m relieved to be leaving what is genuinely one of the nicest, friendliest and culturally rich cities I’ve travelled to, I’m afraid that Lublin could soon be dragged closer into fending off the gradual creep of Russian audacity.
Waking up today to the news that the Polish military had to shut Lublin and Rzeszówv airports “to allow military aviation operations,” where both Polish and NATO allied aircraft were scrambled, it put into perspective that WW3 could be more feasible than we all think.
The temporary airport shutdowns followed the “high alert” situation where west Ukraine cities – including Lyiv and Ternopil – were hit by Russian airstrikes, tragically claiming the lives of at least 19 people, including two children.
It’s a sobering thought that my one night away was shortly followed by such destruction and tragedy just miles away. Russia continues to aggravate NATO away from their supporting part and into the lead role – but at what cost?
I just know I’m incredibly appreciative to be home in the UK for now.
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